Singer Brett Anderson pulled the band Suede together in 1992 when he recruited Bernard Butler, Matt Osman and Simon Gilbert and their first four singles all charted alongside their debut Number 1 album Suede, which also brought them the 1993 Mercury Music Prize. When Butler left in 1994, Richard Oakes joined the group and the new line-up racked up the Number 1 albums Coming Up and Head Music plus a further twelve Top 20 singles. In 2005 Anderson and Butler reunited as The Tears and in 2013 Anderson, after issuing four solo albums, returned to the band to record their seventh album Bloodsports.
MOJO magazine asked me to work with Suede, who had just made a fantastic impact with their first album and an amazing performance at the 93 BRIT awards. They were one of the happening bands of the year and looked great. They responded well to my simple idea and Bernard Butler, their brilliant guitarist, really made the shot special with his performance at the back of the group!
📸 by Gered Mankowitz
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Jimi Hendrix arrived in England in September 1966 - accompanied by his manager Chas Chandler, ex-bass player with the Animals - and immediately made an impression on London’s Swinging 60s scene with a series of club appearances. By early 1967, The Jimi Hendrix Experience - including Noel Redding and Mitch Mitchell - had their first Top 10 hit with ‘Hey Joe’. Over the next three years Hendrix made headlines with his sensational stage act and a string of hit records with both the Experience and the Band of Gypsys but less than a month after playing at the Isle of Wight Festival in August 1970, Hendrix was found dead in a London flat.
Jimi Smiles is one of my favourites – the smile is infectious and reminds me of what fun we had during the shoot – he smiled and laughed a lot but in those days everybody wanted to be moody and sexy and smiling wasn’t cool!
📸 by Gered Mankowitz
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Keyboard player Georgie Fame moved on from backing rock acts such as Gene Vincent and Billy Fury to lead his own band the Blue Flames in the early 60s before issuing his first Number 1 single ‘Yeh Yeh’ in 1965. The following year he returned to Number 1 with ‘Get Away’ and in 1968 hit the top spot for a third time with ‘The Ballad of Bonnie And Clyde’, which was also a US Top 10 hit. After a partnership with ex-Animal Alan Price in 1971 - which resulted in the Top 20 hit ‘Rosetta’ - Fame combined recording and composing with working alongside Van Morrison.
Georgie Fame was one of the the leading R&B musicians in the UK having started his career at age 16 with manager Larry Parnes, who gave him his name, and put him together with another of his great artists - Billy Fury. Georgie had many hits through the 60s and 70s with his band the Blue Flames and since then worked with Bill Wyman and Van Morrison.
📸 by Gered Mankowitz
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Spooky Tooth was one of the most respected but commercially unsuccessful progressive rock bands of the 60s. Formed in 1967 by Gary Wright, when he got together with Mike Harrison, Greg Ridley, Mike Kellie and Luther Grosvenor, who had all played in the VIPs, Spooky Tooth released their debut album - with a cover photographed by Mankowitz - the following year. Their second album Spooky Two, which was a minor hit in America, followed in 1969 and, after Wright left, the band continued through to their final album The Last Puff, which was released the following year. After reforming in 1972, the band split again in 1974 but reunited once more in 1998.
Spooky Tooth were one of Island Records’ best bands of the 60s but never achieved the commercial success that they deserved. I shot the cover session for their first album It’s All About, and then a press session on the farm that they all lived in. They lived in delightful, stoned, hippie squalor, which comes across pretty well, I think - very 60s!
📸 by Gered Mankowitz
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Flamboyant London-born impresario Andrew Loog Oldham began his long career in the music industry as a publicist for producer Joe Meek and singer/songwriter Bob Dylan before he turned to managing and producing the Rolling Stones between 1963 and 1967. He discovered Marianne Faithfull ahead of setting up his own Immediate Records label in 1965 and signing successful artists such as Chris Farlowe, the Small Faces, Rod Stewart, the Nice and Amen Corner. After working in America from 1980, where he produced Donovan, Oldham moved to Colombia and produced three best-selling autobiographies while also hosting a US satellite radio show.
Of all the extraordinary people I have had the good fortune to work with, Andrew has to be the most important. He was a great visionary and always managed to push my photography further than I thought I could go, inspiring me to think harder and experiment more. My time with the Stones and Immediate Records were the 60s for me and without Andrew it wouldn’t have been nearly as much fun. He became a dear friend and still is!
📸 by Gered Mankowitz
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Bing Crosby made his first record in 1926 as a member of the Rhythm Boys and went to become the ‘king of the Crooners’ with career sales in excess of 400 million. He went on to appear in films in the 1930s and starred in a series of Road To… films with Bob Hope and also in High Society and Holiday Inn, which featured his biggest ever hit record ‘White Christmas’. Released in 1942, it passed the 30 million sales mark and charted for 18 consecutive years. He duetted with David Bowie in September 1977 - when they recorded The Little Drummer Boy’ - but died a month later.
Crosby was probably the biggest ‘star’ I worked with. He had been at the top of his profession for 50 years and was recognised around the globe. Consequently this shoot was shrouded in anxiety and a general nervousness at how to deal with the great man. The idea was to shoot four different portraits representing the different seasons, and we put together outfits for each one with clothes purchased for the occasion from shops that Bing had personally specified. The tension was very high when he arrived and he appeared sullen and very uncommunicative. I showed him the outfits and asked which one he felt like starting with, to which his response was simply to say ‘No’! I was so taken aback that I asked him again, believing that he couldn’t have heard what I had said, and he said a definitive ‘No’ yet again. I then asked what he was saying ‘No’ to, and he announced that he was in a hurry and he would pose only for a single portrait and he would wear the clothes he came in! I had no choice but to agree and nobody from the record company was prepared to challenge him, so we hurriedly had to select the background ‘season’ that most suited the outfit he was wearing and proceeded to shoot. I nearly managed to complete a single roll of film before Bing got up and strode out of the room, announcing that if I didn’t have it I was never going to get it! He left the studio to catch a plane to Spain to play golf, where he died three days later.
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Leonard Cohen was 60 years of age in 1994 and he had been creating poetry, literature and music for nearly 40 years since publishing his first book of verse in 1956. After drifting from his native Montreal to New York, Cohen was signed to CBS in 1966 and he has remained with the label ever since despite producing only a dozen studio albums. His most successful collections Songs From A Room and Songs of Love and Hate were both UK Top 10 hits while his anthem composition 'Hallelujah' has been covered by over 200 artists, including John Cale and Jeff Buckley.
This session was for MOJO magazine and I was thrilled when they asked me to photograph Leonard. He was utterly charming and appeared to enjoy the experience very much, throwing shapes and posing like crazy! He also told us some of the funniest and filthiest jokes I have ever heard!
📸 by Gered Mankowitz
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