At the end of my trip in Patagonia I have to say that it was my most intense time in these mountains ever. I was allowed to experience everything: freedom, peace, life, death, grief, sadness, happiness and joy, love, mindfulness, gratitude, the cohesion of the community, the rebellious life of the stonemonkeys, the connection with the universe. Above all, our greatest success when we brought back a boy's father @fitzroyguide from the mountains, and at the same time the painful moment that his partner @korra_pesce, also father of a daughter will stay in these mountains forever. Life can be hard an painful, but at the end it is a wonderful gift from the universe.... so let's make the persent moment amazing! #stonemonkeys#indenbergenistfreiheit#elchalten@adidasterrex@fiveten_official@bioteaque_sports@bergerlebnis_berchtesgaden@petzl_official@komperdell_official@peeroton
Liebe Mama, liebe Mütter.
Ich wünsche euch allen einen schönen Muttertag. Danke für alles! Lasst euch heute verwöhnen und feierts gscheid. Ihr habt es euch verdient.
Fourth day on the ridge....in the morning we received the latest weather report via inreach. The window will be closed tonight... and the next day it will be really bad... nothing to be here. We raped Kakito and traversed to Brecha de los Italianos. Finally we met 2 friends who climbed Fitz Roy via Affanassieff and came down Franco. "The southface is very icy, not in good condition for climbing!" this comment and the weather report made it very easy for us to make the right decision. We finish here, call this point the summit for our moonwalk. Of course we wanted to climb to the end of the moonwalk, but we were both so happy with how far we've come, all the moments we've captured, the silence and freedom, the excitement and exhaustion, and last but not least the amazing time we're having in these mountains, the old and the young, the wild and the crazy! We got everything.
@pedro_odell@adidasterrex@fiveten_official@bioteaque_sports@bergerlebnis_berchtesgaden@petzl_official@komperdell_official@peeroton
Third day on Fitz Roy's moonwalk. The biggest step was ahead of us. The south face of Pioncenot via the classic Fonrouge... it wasn't a hard climb but long, and complicated route finding. The last 300 meters slowed us down. At a certain height the last bad weather brought a lot of snow and now all the cracks were full of ice. We had reached the summit in the late afternoon and we feel already the three days climbing. We were tired, exhausted, but very happy and we both send with gratitude a smile into the universe of these mountains. We abseiled the Potter Davis towards Kakito and bivouacked another night in a small col in this solitude of the moonwalk.@adidasterrex@fiveten_official@bioteaque_sports@bergerlebnis_berchtesgaden@petzl_official@komperdell_official@peeroton@pedro_odell
Second day on the rocks with the great Pedro. We cruised the "Austriaca" to the summit of Saint Exupéry, celebrate the moment with a bavarian "Juchiza", Pedro with an argentinian "Aaahhuuuaaa", crossed the knife edge ridge to Aguja Rafael Juárez, reached the spiky summit before dawn and got to the shoulder above Col Sustad. What a great day together with this young spirit. It felt like we had been climbing together for years... and with him on the rope I felt years younger 😅 @adidasterrex@fiveten_official@bioteaque_sports@bergerlebnis_berchtesgaden@petzl_official@komperdell_official@peeroton@pedro_odell
The window: everyone believes in a mystical patagonian weather rule: the full moon at the end of february often brings a good window... and yes, it came.... 3, maybe up to 5 days. All Stonemonkeys got ready to go back in the mountains. For Pedro and me, it was the time for another try on the Moonwalk on Fitz Roy.
We started from El Chalten early morning in foggy slightly rainy weather and climbed through the clouds on the same day to the summit of Aguja de I's. Later we bivouacked on a big ledge under the summit above a sea of clouds. It was magical. Everything felt so light and good,
the climbing with
the young Pedro, the fun we had from the beginning. In that moment I knew, why
we would gladly expose ourselves to this danger in these mountains: up here
we are free and everything we achieve is in our hands. You are part of the nature and you can only survive, if you respect these laws of this wild world. It is such a intense great way of life, so pure, so real!
@pedro_odell@adidasterrex@fiveten_official@bioteaque_sports@bergerlebnis_berchtesgaden@petzl_official@komperdell_official@peeroton#stonemonkeys#fitzroy#cerrotorre#bestteam#elchalten
Endlich wieder auf der Bühne, Zeit werds 🙏! Freitag 29. April in Bad Neustadt Stadthalle, 20 Uhr. "Steinzeit"....unter anderem erzähle ich die neuesten Geschichten und Erlebnisse aus Patagonien. Ich freu mich auf euch! Auch Alexander ist mit seinen Vortag unterwegs. Seine Termine findet ihr auf @alexander_huberbuam
www.huberbuam.de
#storytelling
Putagonia: we got everything what Patagonia had to offer: storms, rain, snow, but also sunny days, even if only in El Chalten. The program for these days were simple: breakfast with the community including intense philosohizing, bouldering in the blocks, evening beer in Fresco Bar. When there was no more hope for a change, my friend and partner Anderl Soyter from my hometown Berchtesgaden decide to leave the bad weather of Patagonia behind and start the journey back home. But for some reason, I felt like I should stay longer. Maybe because I still hope, that we would get some good days for the mountains, but above all, I wanted to stay to become more and more a real stonemonkey and live this pure and crazy life again. Then a magic moment happen somewhere on a dusty road in El Chalten: "Hey do want to climb with me if the weather will allow?" His shining smile immediately gave the answer. It was Pedro Odell, talented, hungry, and the best of the young generation of the town. He's 18, I'm 55: the young and the old, the wild and the wise, the bold and the crazy will rope up when a window opens a gate for these mountains. Soooo great! Aaaahuuuaaa! @pedro_odell@macacomacaco@luisinhodelchalten@petisin@adidasterrex@fiveten_official@bioteaque_sports@bergerlebnis_berchtesgaden@petzl_official@komperdell_official@peeroton#storytelling#stonemonkeys#elchalten
After the rescue: back in town, it was not easy to go back to normal mountaineering life: to study the weather models and wait for a good moment to go again to these mountains. For a moment, we couldn't see our dreams of what we are here for. We were looking more for the close connection to the community and try to understand what really happened in the past days. We talked a lot about life, death, love, our passion and tried to understand, why we accept the deadly risk to achieve our goals. Even though some sunny days promised smaller peaks, we stayed away from the mountains and went bouldering. We were deeply connected to nature, feeling that we are all part of the universe and life is a temporary gift. In the end, it's up to us, to enrich this life with beauty, love and great moments. This wisdom of nature led us back on our trail and we all wait for a big window to return these mountains. @adidasterrex@fiveten_official@bioteaque_sports@bergerlebnis_berchtesgaden@petzl_official@komperdell_official@peeroton@komperdell_official#stonemonkeys#elchalten#cerrotorre#fitzroy#fresco
The Rescue: The window was amazing. It was sunny, no wind and even in this patagonian heat, some bold climbers made some mindblowing achievments on the Torre range. It couldn't be better, until the moment, climbers saw an SOS light signal on the Torres, early in the morning of Friday 28th...and these dreamy days turned into a nightmare.
An ice avalanche hit Tommy Aguilo and Korra Pesce high on Cerro Torre, while descending on the northface, after completing one of the best climbs in Patagonia.
All the climbers in the valley began to strategize for a rescue opportunity. This set in motion, a chain reaction. We soon discovered that @fitzroyguide could abseil with a small piece of rope. Korra was badly injured and unable to move. Tommy made it to the Triangle snow field, 400 meters above the ground. I went to the base of Cerro Torre with a small team. @lindicluka and Luka Kranjnc made observations from the other side of the valley with binos. They gave information about the action on the wall via radio. Luckily @matteodellabordella and his team managed to descend from Cerro Torre via the compressor route and Swiss climber @rogerschaeli_alpinist arrived with the first group of the rescue team. We joined a fast evacuation team and climbed the lower part to the snowfield within three of hours. We reached Tommy before dark. He was injured, very weak but very clear in his mind and could still move on his feet. Tommy had an incredible desire to survive, this was nothing short of a miracle. I organized Tommy abseiling with @roberto_indio_treu , an Argentine member of the rescue team. Matteo and Roger tried to continue climbing to Korra.
At the end we all pushed ourselves to the limit that night and we ended up going 30 hours non-stop without sleep. At the end we rescued Tommy but we couldn't reach Korra.
It was an unbelievable team effort by Argentinian and international climbers, which can be rated far above a summit success on Cerro Torre. But in the end it remains the painful loss of a a great friend of our climbing community and climber @korra_pesce. At the end, 70 people, climbers of all nations and the rescue team of El Chalten were involved in these rescue.