The ultimate achievement: discovering a new shape. These are a handful of designs that changed the way we wear clothes. Who did I miss?
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CREDITS AND DISCLAIMERS
*Most of these are via the gawd, Dana Thomas
**Mary Quant didn’t “invent” the mini skirt, but she’s rightfully credited with popularizing it.
***Coco Chanel was a nazi, fuck that.
****im now being informed that the dress I tagged as Chanel is actually a Givenchy dress, my bad 😞
This was a video that I made for serious students of fashion. I spoke to an established designer to uncover his philosophy of pattern cutting and drafting. It’s deceptively simple. I’m thrilled to put this out into the world. It’s out now, go watch it 💫💫
Special thanks to @janjanvanessche for taking the time to share his insight.
Andre Leon Talley passed this evening. For as long as I’ve wanted to be a fashion critic, Andre has been one of my biggest inspirations.
Throughout his life as a critic, Andre helped guide the culture towards beautiful work. But while many of us can only recognize beauty, Andre helped us *understand* beauty; he was a human encyclopedia of fashion. Andre kept a tape recorder with him while watching shows to narrate his notes. Most critics need time to research runway references, but Andre just knew them off rip. The full story of fashion was inside him.
Our world of fashion is very small and we keep losing our greats. Alber Elbaz last year, Virgil last month, we lost Nino Cerruti a couple days ago, and now Andre. As much as you can, please find a way to reach out to creators you love and tell them. Be specific, tell them how their work has touched you. Let’s not wait until we have to write a goodbye post. Let them know now.
I wish I had done that for Andre. I aspire to be half as good at this work as he was.
My fashion library. The best way to get meaningful information about fashion is through books. I started collecting about 5 years ago and it’s grown a lot. If you’re used to fashion coming to you through your phone, starting into books is really intimidating. I promise it’s worth it.
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Instagram is full of unrealistic expectations and humble bragging, so I feel it’s important for me to specify a few things. Firstly, I run a fashion media business, so there’s a tax incentive for me to collect resources like books so I can do my job well. On top of that, I wait and find used books for well below their retail price. And about 40% of these books were gifts. If you’re looking to start a library, ThriftBooks and eBay are great resources. Also the scans on ArchivePDF. And you’d be surprised what you can get a hold of through your local library system.
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If you want to get started learning more about clothes and the art of fashion, the last slide is my top recommended titles.
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I am an incredibly slow reader. I have, by no means, read every book in the first picture. Here’s the trick. When you’re reading for information, it’s like learning an instrument. You don’t need to learn every individual technique to say “I play the guitar”. You just need to pick out the things that are important to you. I flip through these books to find the things that I want, and then I take time reading those sections multiple times to soak them up.
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Again, reading is very challenging for me. I have to force myself to do it. I think my biggest hurdle to reading is insecurity. Whenever I sit down with a book, it’s so challenging that I start to think, “why is everyone else able to do this easily and it’s so hard for me? I’m a grown ass man, why can’t I just read a book?” I don’t have any life hacks for making reading easier but I can tell you that, if you feel the same way, so do I.
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If you want more nuanced book recommendations, search “Bliss Foster books“ on YouTube, there’s a few videos where I go into a lot of detail. I also have a Patreon exclusive video where I cover the best fashion biographies.
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Don’t let your insecurity defeat you. Go crush it 🦾