@brianbowensmith

Yesterday I got the most amazing opportunity of a lifetime. One of my greatest friends in the world Rick Callahan went down to @zjboardinghouse and him and TR picked out a jen of a surfboard for me. Because Mark Randolph invited me to #kellyslater ‘s Surf Lodge. I haven’t surfed in over a year. I was full of anxiety and excitement. I didn’t even know if I would still be able to stand up. To say I was pumped would be the biggest understatement of my life. Everyone at the Surf Lodge was so amazing that I immediately felt like I was with family. They got me out of my head and reminded me this is a once in a lifetime opportunity just enjoy it no stress you’re gonna be fine. Oh how they were right. Probably the best group of staff food and love out of anywhere I’ve ever been in my life. Mark you and all of your friends gave me the best birthday present I’ve ever had. I never thought in my life at 53 years old I would be so deep inside of a barrel. I still cannot believe what happened. I will never forget those two days with you your family and friends. And everyone else who made that day possible. @copiousmgmt @sheabowensmith @toddroberts When I get excited or pumped on something I can be a lot. It takes the same kind of sore to understand me and be on the same plane. That whole place and everyone with me were there at 100%. I believe in all kinds of love. I believe in all kinds of love at first sight. I believe in the universe. And I believe in manifesting it when it’s in front of me. Going down in history as one of my favorite days of my life. Thank you thank you thank you thank you. Oh and that barrel Won the coveted @kswaveco wave of the day. 🤯 @thatwillneverwork you will never know how your simple act of kindness affected my life. Mahalo #thatjusthappened #surfing